When considering a Wick Buildings 40×60 pole barn, one decision that often comes up is whether to opt for pressure-treated skids under the structure. Many buyers wonder if they are essential for durability, or if they can be skipped to save on cost. This article will break down what pressure-treated skids do for a 40×60 building, their role in moisture protection, structural support, and long-term performance, so you can make a practical choice for your project.
What Are Pressure-Treated Skids, and Why Do They Matter for a Wick Buildings 40×60?
Pressure-treated skids are horizontal wooden beams, typically 4×6 or 6×6 in cross-section, that sit directly on the foundation or ground and support the entire pole barn structure. For a Wick Buildings 40×60, these skids are usually laid out along the length of the building at intervals of 4 to 6 feet, directly under the main columns. Their primary job is to distribute the building’s weight across the foundation pads or gravel base and to keep the wooden columns from making direct contact with soil or concrete, which can wick moisture upward. In a pole barn, timbers like these are critical because they are the interface between the building and the ground—any failure here can compromise the whole structure.
Without pressure-treated skids, the bottom ends of the pole barn’s main columns would sit directly on concrete pier blocks, gravel, or a slab. While some builders skip skids on concrete slabs (where moisture is less of a concern), for a 40×60 building—especially on gravel or dirt—skids add a layer of protection against rot, insect damage, and uneven settling. The pressure treatment process forces preservatives deep into the wood, typically Southern Yellow Pine or Douglas Fir, making it resistant to decay and termites for decades. In short, skids matter because they extend the life of the pole barn by keeping the structure a few inches off the ground, improving air circulation, and reducing moisture contact. For a 40×60 building, which can easily weigh over 10 tons when fully loaded, this is a non-negotiable detail for durability.

Is a Pressure-Treated Skid System Necessary if I Build on a Concrete Slab?
This is a common question among Wick Buildings 40×60 owners. If you plan to pour a concrete slab foundation, the need for pressure-treated skids changes somewhat. On a properly poured concrete slab with a vapor barrier (typically a 6-mil poly sheet), the primary moisture risk is reduced because the concrete itself acts as a barrier against ground moisture. In such cases, many builders choose to set the column anchors directly into the concrete, omitting wooden skids entirely. This is often the standard approach for pole barns with full slabs, as it simplifies construction and reduces material costs.
However, there are still scenarios where skids are beneficial even on a slab. For example, if your slab is not perfectly level, skids can help level the building frame. Also, if the slab may be subject to occasional flooding or high humidity, skids provide a small air gap that keeps wood from direct contact with the concrete. Water can travel through concrete via capillary action, so a treated skid system prevents wicking into the column base. For a 40×60 building, the added cost of skids (roughly £600 to £1,200 or $750 to $1,500 depending on wood grade) might be a worthwhile insurance policy, particularly in wet climates like the UK (where moisture is a constant concern) or the Pacific Northwest. If you are building on a slab but expect high moisture, skids provide a safety buffer. If you are on a dry, well-drained slab, you can likely skip them and anchor directly to the concrete.
How Do Pressure-Treated Skids Compare to Concrete Block or Poured Footings for a Wick 40×60?
When choosing how to support your Wick Buildings 40×60, you have three main options: pressure-treated skids paired with concrete piers or gravel, concrete block pillars, or full poured concrete footings. Each method has distinct disadvantages and advantages concerning cost, lift, and longevity. Skids are generally the least expensive and quickest to install—you simply lay the treated beams on a prepared gravel base, level them, and set the poles on top. For a 40×60 building, this might take a crew a day, whereas concrete footings can require a week for excavation, formwork, pouring, and curing.
Concrete block pillars (often used as piers under columns) are rigid and avoid wood-to-soil contact entirely, but they require precision placement and can be prone to frost heave if not set deeply enough. Poured concrete footings are the most robust but also the most expensive, adding thousands to the project cost. For a 40×60 building with a heavy roof load (e.g., in snow country), poured footings are often mandated by local codes. However, pressure-treated skids work well when the soil has good drainage and the building is on a level site. They are also easier to replace if one rots over many decades—though properly treated wood should last 30-50 years. The key trade-off is that skids are wood and will eventually need maintenance, while concrete is permanent but costly upfront. For a Wick 40×60, many owners choose skids for a cost-effective, DIY-friendly approach, especially if the building is for equipment storage or a workshop. If you plan to finish the interior with a concrete floor, you can still use skids for frame support and pour the slab later.
What Are the Signs That Your Wick Buildings 40×60 Skids Need Attention?
Pressure-treated wood is durable, but it’s not invincible. Over time, especially if the skids were not properly installed or if the site has poor drainage, you may notice issues. Common signs include cracking, splitting, or soft spots in the wood, especially near the ground. If you see fungal growth (mushrooms or black rot) on the skids, that’s a clear indicator that moisture has penetrated the treatment. Also, check for insect infestation—termites or carpenter ants can tunnel into untreated areas at the ends. For a 40×60 building, where the skids span long bays, you may also notice unevenness in the floor or walls. If the building’s sliding doors or roll-up doors begin to jam, that could be a sign that the skids are settling unevenly.
Another less obvious sign is the presence of standing water near the skids after rain. If the gravel base is not sloped away from the building, water can pool around the wood, accelerating decay. A simple test is to probe the skids with a screwdriver near the base—if it sinks in more than 1/8 inch easily, the wood is compromised. For a Wick 40×60, if you catch decay early, you can sometimes replace a single skid by jacking up the building with bottle jacks. But if the damage is widespread, you may need to consider a more involved repair, such as installing concrete piers alongside the skids. The severity table below gives a quick reference for action.
| Symptom | Severity Level | Suggested Action |
|---|---|---|
| Surface cracking (less than 1/4 inch wide) | Usually Not Urgent | Monitor annually; no immediate action needed |
| Soft spots or rot localized to one skid end | Needs Attention Soon | Replace affected skid section (cut out and sister new wood) within 6 months |
| Mushrooms growing on skids | Needs Attention Soon | Improve drainage, remove affected wood, and replace with new pressure-treated lumber |
| Visible insect tunnels or frass | Needs Attention Soon | Inspect entire skid system; treat chemically or replace if widespread |
| Doors jamming or floor sloped more than 1 inch over 10 feet | Needs Attention Soon | Check skid level and foundation; jack and shim if needed |
| Widespread rot across multiple skids | Urgent – Needs Immediate Action | Hire a professional to evaluate structural integrity; replace skids systematically |
Should I Use Pressure-Treated Skids Under a 40×60 with a Metal vs. Vinyl Siding?
The choice of siding material can influence whether skids are more or less important, but not as much as the foundation type. Metal siding vs. vinyl siding has different moisture management properties. Metal siding is non-porous and sheds water well, but it can condense moisture on its underside in humid conditions, which may drip onto the skids if not properly vented. Vinyl siding, on the other hand, is also waterproof but can trap moisture against the wall if not installed with a rain screen. However, the main point is that skids are directly exposed to ground moisture, not wall runoff. The siding material does not change the primary function of skids: ground-level protection.
That said, if you choose vinyl siding, which tends to be more flexible and less rigid than steel, you still need a solid level base for the siding panels to attach to. Skids provide that stable base. Metal siding often requires a rigid frame to prevent oil-canning, and skids ensure the wall columns stay plumb and even. In both cases, a well-installed skid system supports the entire building envelope. If you are also considering floor options, note that with gravel-based floors, skids are almost essential because the gravel does not provide a solid tie point. On a slab, you have more flexibility. Ultimately, whether you go with metal or vinyl, pressure-treated skids are a low-cost insurance policy against ground-level moisture intrusion—especially in damp climates like the UK—and they help maintain the structural integrity of the building over decades.

How Do Pressure-Treated Skids Perform in Wet or Humid Climates for a 40×60?
This is where pressure-treated wood truly earns its keep. In regions with high rainfall or humidity—think the UK, Pacific Northwest, or Gulf Coast—a Wick Buildings 40×60 with untreated skids could rot in under a decade. Pressure-treated wood is engineered for these conditions. The preservative chemicals (typically copper-based, like ACQ or CCA) penetrate the cell walls of the wood, making it resistant to fungal decay and termites. For a 40×60 building, which sits on a foundation that might be 6-12 inches above ground, the skids are the closest wood to the soil. They bear the brunt of moisture splash and condensation.
Proper installation also matters. Skids should be elevated at least 2-3 inches above the finished grade to avoid direct contact with soil, and the gravel base should be sloped away from the building to divert water. In wet climates, some builders add a layer of 6-mil poly sheeting under the skids as an extra moisture barrier. The distance between skids also affects performance—if they are spaced too far apart (over 6 feet), the building may sag; typically, 4-foot centers are recommended for a 40×60. If you live in an area with high water tables, you might also consider using concrete piers under the columns instead of skids entirely, though that increases cost. Many owners in humid climates report that with proper treatment and maintenance, their skids last 30-40 years. The key is to start with high-grade material (stamped .40 or .60 retention levels) and to seal any cut ends with wood preservative during installation. For a 40×60 building, the small extra effort pays off in long-term reliability.
What Owners Say
Mark from Oregon notes: “I built my Wick 40×60 with pressure-treated skids on a gravel base in the Willamette Valley. It’s been 12 years of hard rain, and the skids look as good as the day they were installed. I did put down a poly vapor barrier first, and I keep the gravel slope at about 2% away from the building. No issues at all.”
Susan in Scotland reports: “My 40×60 barn uses skids but I had a problem after 5 years when a couple of the skids started to rot near the end. I realized my French drain was clogged, so water was pooling. I replaced those two skids with treated lumber and fixed the drain. It was a messy job but saved the building. I’d recommend checking drainage before the skids as much as choosing the wood itself.”
Frequently Asked Questions
- Can I use regular lumber instead of pressure-treated skids for my Wick 40×60? No, regular lumber will rot within a few years if it contacts soil or gravel. Pressure-treated wood is required for ground contact to prevent decay and insect damage. Any code-compliant pole barn will mandate it.
- How thick should pressure-treated skids be for a 40×60 building? Typically, 4×6 or 6×6 nominal lumber is used. For a 40×60 building with heavy roof loads (e.g., snow), 6×6 is recommended. Check local building codes, as some areas require 4×6 with a 4-foot spacing.
- Can I install skids directly on top of concrete slab? Yes, but it’s not always necessary. If you do, use a vapor barrier between the concrete and the wood and consider pressure-treated timber grade for ground contact (even though it’s above concrete). A gap is not required but helps ventilation.
- Do skids affect the radiant barrier performance of the roof? Indirectly. Skids do not impact roof insulation. However, if you are considering radiant barrier effectiveness, it helps to keep the building air tight. Skids should be sealed properly to prevent ground moisture entering the building envelope, which could reduce overall insulation efficacy.
- My Wick 40×60 has a leaning wall—could skids be the cause? Possibly. If skids are rotten or have settled unevenly, they can cause the walls to shift. Check for rot at the base of columns. Read this guide on fixing a leaning wall for diagnosis and repair steps.
- Can skids be replaced without dismantling the building? Yes, but it is complex. For a 40×60 building, you can use bottle jacks to lift the structure slightly, remove the old skid, and slide in a new pressure-treated one. You will need to support the building’s weight with temporary cribbing. It is best done by a professional if the damage is extensive.




